Glassing Room Inspiration

This picture is hanging in the glassing room, Leslie put it there long ago. Every time I see it I think about how good we have it these days. This guys is charging, no wetsuit, no leash, way out to sea, and he had to climb down a cliff with his board in order to paddle out. This was when you could count the number of surfers around here on one hand, pretty gnarly. The water is still cold, the waves still fickle and the big gray fish are still lurking, but at least we have warm wetsuits, leashes and light weight surfboards designed for our waves. Jake